Special Feature — THE FORGOTTEN TEMPLE: Dakkinagiriya & the Other Kaludiya Pokuna

A thousand-year-old ‘mountain monastery’, lost in the Kaludiya Pokuna Forest, east of Dambulla; forgotten by the tour guides, and seemingly by time itself. For the visitor seeking something literally off the beaten track, the Dakkinagiri Viharaya is an intriguing but serene detour away from the well-trodden sites of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle.”

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The stupa of the 9th century Dakkinagiri Viharaya, with Erawalgala behind it.
Continue reading “Special Feature — THE FORGOTTEN TEMPLE: Dakkinagiriya & the Other Kaludiya Pokuna”
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Planning for Disease

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Nadika Fernandopulle, a project manager of the Family Planning Association of Sri Lanka; shot at the National STD/AIDS Control Programme, de Saram Place, Maradana, on assignment for Panos Pictures and The Global Fund, in January 2022.

• 50mm • f/1.6 • 1/640 • ISO500 • 5DMkIV & EF 50/1.4 courtesy Canon/Metropolitan

Special Feature — The Devil’s Staircase: Travels on the Kalupahana-Ohiya Road

To call the route connecting Kalupahana to Ohiya a road is quite generous. What it is, is an adventure. Whether you are tough enough to walk its length or mad enough to drive it, this is a journey every adventurer should take.”

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Sometimes the Devil’s Staircase feels like the edge of Heaven.
Continue reading “Special Feature — The Devil’s Staircase: Travels on the Kalupahana-Ohiya Road”

Special Feature — Mysteries in the Jungle: the Batatotalena Cave Temple

Current belief is that Batatotalena is the Divaguhawa of legend, though the argument on its authenticity goes on.

The characteristic triangular shape of an arch cave can be clearly seen at the mouth of Batatotalena.
Continue reading “Special Feature — Mysteries in the Jungle: the Batatotalena Cave Temple”

Enslaved in Slave Island #14

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Iresha Wijesinghe, lab assistant at the National STD/AIDS Control Programme (NSACP) clinic tending to needle users in Slave Island. Shot on assignment for Panos Pictures and The Global Fund, in January 2022.

• 50mm • f/1.4 • 1/250 • ISO200 • 5DMkIV & EF 50/1.4 courtesy Canon/Metropolitan

No 13A in Tamil Town

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A busy Friday evening in Pettah, Colombo’s main shopping and market district. January 2023. Interestingly, while the city of Colombo is mostly Tamil-speaking (over 60% of the residents are Tamil or Tamil-speaking Moors), the sign in the foreground prohibiting parking is only in Sinhalese (the majority language of Sri Lanka), reflecting decades of Sinhalese-dominated governance that many believe has contributed to ethnic conflict. The controversial 13th Amendment to the Constitution, passed by Parliament in 1987, legislated that, amongst other things, Tamil be elevated to the status of an official language, alongside Sinhalese, and that all official communications be in both languages. However, more than thirty-five years later, many clauses of the amendment remain unenforced, despite Tamil demands for equal treatment.

• 35mm • f/4 • 1/100 • ISO2000 • Canon R6 & RF14-35/4L •

Enslaved in Slave Island #13

One an NSACP* outreach volunteer, the other a single father; both lifelong friends, and recovering addicts. Wekanda Housing Scheme, Stewart Street, Slave Island. Shot on assignment for Panos Pictures and The Global Fund, in January 2022.

• 70mm • f/4 • 1/400 • ISO800 • 5DMkIV & EF 24-105/f4L courtesy Canon/Metropolitan

*The National STD/AIDS Control Programme is a Sri Lankan Health Ministry initiative to coordinate the country’s response to sexually transmitted diseases.

Enslaved in Slave Island #12

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A recovering addict in the Wekanda Housing Scheme, Stewart Street, Slave Island. Shot on assignment for Panos Pictures and The Global Fund, in January 2022.

• 50mm • f/1.4 • 1/1250 • ISO400 • 5DMkIV & EF 50/1.4, courtesy Canon/Metropolitan

Evil Eye

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Sri Lanka’s Lotus Tower is probably the most easily noticeable symbol of the government corruption and ineptitude that brought on the worst economic catastrophe in the island nation’s history. Ordered by former President Mahinda Rajapakse in 2012, the tower, the tallest in South Asia, and visible from practically every part of the capital, Colombo, is viewed by many as a vanity project, costing as much as $104 million to build, but with little use beyond glorifying the leadership of the former president and his party (the Sri Lanka Podujana Pakshaya’s symbol is a lotus). This photograph was taken from 5th Cross Street, in the city’s market district of Pettah, in January 2023.

• 35mm • f/4 • 1/100 • ISO6400 • R6 & RF14-35/4L •

COVID wasn’t the Only Disease #3

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Buddhika Lakmala National STD/AIDS Control Programme (NSACP) outreach worker, poses in full PPE outside his Slave Island clinic, in January 2022. NSACP mobile teams continued to operate throughout the pandemic, and Buddhika is about to head out to nearby Stewart Street to take blood samples, and hand out HIV self-tests, needles, condoms, and educational literature to heroin addicts. Shot on assignment for Panos Pictures and The Global Fund.

• 105mm • f/4 • 1/500 • ISO125 • 5DMkIV & EF 24-105/f4L courtesy Canon/Metropolitan